For the architect

The owner's wish: the architect is a mentor and planner (like a wedding planner, preparing everything) - not only drawing the house, but also advising on the process of building a first house: from the steps for adjusting residential land, checking for disputes, zoning - every step from zero to construction and completion certification (the owner will handle the paperwork, only advice is needed). The owner currently has no knowledge of legal matters or the process. Goal: both sides get to know each other and are clear about both sides' expectations before signing the contract. Can the architect support this?

How will the working process between the two sides run? How will meetings and communication work - in person or by chat? Who does the work directly (the lead architect or staff)? Will people change midway? Who is the point of contact?

Can we visit a finished project (already lived in) and talk to the owner of that house? How closely does the finished house match the drawings (in %)?

Deliverables: which drawings does the design package include - architecture, structure, plumbing and electrical (MEP), 3D interior, quantity take-off / cost estimate, the drawing set for the building permit? Are the original files (CAD) handed over? Does the owner have full rights to use the drawings with any contractor, and when adding a floor later? Are completion certification drawings supported?

How many free revisions are allowed at each stage? How are fees charged for extra changes or a change of mind after sign-off? If drawings are wrong or incomplete (structure, plumbing and electrical...) and cause extra construction cost, who pays? What does the contract say?

How can the construction budget be estimated as close to reality as possible - to help choose materials and take off quantities?

Process for choosing furniture materials and suppliers - from sofa, chairs, beds, flooring, sanitary ware, paint, decorative tiles, lamps, wood... basically everything. Is there a showroom visit to choose and get advice? Because the owner honestly does not know what the best or most suitable choice is.

Working process between the architect and the construction contractor to make sure the designed materials can be met (can be bought locally, cost as budgeted)? Does the architect recommend contractors, help compare quotes from several contractors, and review the construction contract?

Adjusting drawings during construction: if the drawings are handed over, and when contacting the construction side an adjustment is needed (the original material is not available, or the cost rises too high, or it cannot be done as designed...), is adjustment supported (even if charged)? What if the drawings sit for 6 months or 1 year before being used for construction and the above issues arise? Design-construction coordination for plumbing and electrical: how can the design company and the construction company work effectively on electrical / water lines and materials - especially when the construction company is chosen a few months after the design is finished?

Goal: the finished house matches the design as closely as possible - interior drawings as detailed as possible. Can the architect choose the furniture and work directly with the construction side, or is a supervision package needed? What if construction differs from the design or cannot be done? Does MM Home also take on the finishing work? What does the project management and construction supervision package look like? Is it supervision like 2 days/week plus days with important milestones (pouring concrete, waterproofing, foundation, floors...) or designer's supervision (making sure construction follows the drawings)? What is the cost?

Safety for small children and the elderly: avoid sharp corners and edges throughout the house as much as possible; opening a cabinet should not hit the legs and cause scrapes or bleeding.

Planning to have a baby: the house may not be designed specifically for the baby, but make sure of: enough power sockets; space for equipment (breast pump, milk warmer, hot water, bottle dryer...); space for a crib in the room. Pay attention to interior design, architectural shapes and power sockets for a house with children - avoid danger.

Minimalist style: straight walls, few details, no cornices, no unnecessary decoration. For decoration, hang paintings.

Simple, pretty ceiling: not many ups and downs (no stepped levels), no cornices.

Interior doors in a curved arch shape.

Slightly deep wood colour, not bright: if light engineered wood is 1 and dark red walnut is 10, the colour wanted is around 6-7. Prefer natural wood for bookshelves, stair steps, ladders and wherever wood is needed - including reclaimed wood (it carries the beauty of time, rough rather than glossy). Outdoor positions such as the gate, side door... can also be prioritised. For interior doors inside the house, should composite be used for safety?

Easy to repaint and change colour - planning to repaint about once every 5 years.

Some walls with a slightly rough, cheap, easy-to-recolour texture - instead of stone cladding (interior walls, exterior walls, yard walls). Where should this be done? Is it OK to waterproof and then apply textured / rough paint directly on the wall - the owner heard that no skim coat is needed and paint can go straight onto concrete? What are the pros and cons?

Indoor plants (optional).

The transition between 2 materials (e.g. skirting, wall trim) must be neat and pretty - detailed drawings / images needed.

Curtains must leave a pocket for recessed installation - avoid exposing the wooden / aluminium curtain rail, for a tidier look. At noon the room needs to be dark for resting while still having a breeze and staying cool. What solution (curtains?)

Ceiling access panel tucked neatly in a corner, not touching the lamp positions, easy to maintain and repair while still looking good - the architect plans the position on the ceiling drawing in advance.

Plan door stoppers from the design stage - do not use one type for every room, choose according to actual usage habits.

The house must not flood - the land is quite low (about 30-50 cm below the road), so the foundation must be raised and the ground-floor concrete poured.

Wall adjoining the neighbouring house - current situation: 2 old houses built with a shared wall, one house already demolished; the old house next door is vacant. Goal: good waterproofing now, and if the neighbouring house is demolished later it can still be handled, without being caught off guard. The architect proposes a solution and notes legal points.

A gathering area with friends: BBQ, hot pot, games, drinks... Location: ground floor (front yard / side / back yard), first floor (L-shaped area), or several places - the architect advises. A space ready for many scenarios, with electricity and water ready; a place for a charcoal BBQ grill, with good smoke extraction.

The robot vacuum can go throughout the house.

Convenient access to drinking water, no need to go far (no need to go into the kitchen each time): one water station per floor. Leave water lines in + out ready to install a drinking-water purifier later if needed. What else can the water station on each floor combine to become a utility corner (e.g. power and water for the robot, a tap, other equipment)?

Space for a treadmill - not needed yet, nice to have.

A spot for a mosquito trap: a surface to put it on (table / shelf) + a ready power socket - the architect advises on the position. Are mosquito screens needed for doors and windows? If so, where and what type?

Buddha altar and Ông Địa (Earth God) altar (both on the ground floor): each has its own small corner.

The shared living area upstairs can be multi-functional: a water station, a study desk for the child (5-6 years old), a work desk for the parents, or a play area for the children. A small work corner for later (computer + standing desk) can go here: leave enough power sockets, switches and a fan in advance; hide the cables neatly.

Future elevator: the house has no elevator yet but will later - so there should be a pre-built shaft. In the meantime, what can this shaft be used for?

L-shaped idea - reference model house: video.

Wastewater drains well even though the area has no public sewer yet; connecting later when a sewer arrives is easy.

Septic tank, water tank and the parts that are hard to change later are sized for the number of future users: currently 3-4 people, later 5-8 people (3 generations).

Future swimming pool (maybe 10-20 years from now): plan the space so there is room to build it then; leave the water line ready.

The garden and planters drain well, with no standing water.

The dry toilet area also has a drain hole - because it still gets wet from hand washing and bathing.

Doors and windows: what needs to be done so rain water does not pool or flow in? Are drain holes needed?

Should bathroom waterproofing go up to 1.8-2 m, or is the whole wall better? Is reverse waterproofing on the ceiling of the floor below needed? Should waterproofing be tested by flooding for 72 hours?

Pipe maintenance without breaking into walls: when repairs, unclogging or septic tank pumping are needed, there are ready openings to feed the hose in.

Brainstorm all the positions that need power sockets; slightly more sockets - 2, 3 or 4 depending on the area; use universal sockets (fit every kind of plug). Heavily used areas (living room, kitchen, shared area...): better too many than too few - always have a socket ready when needed or when adding equipment.

Electrical designed around the family's usage habits and with spare reserve capacity for the future (kitchen and toilet appliances...) - buying more equipment does not mean re-running wires; heavily used areas (living room, kitchen, shared area...) get even more spare capacity.

Adding a floor later without breaking walls or running exposed wires: prepare electrical and water lines in advance for connecting.

Easy and safe electrical maintenance: a separate circuit breaker (CB / aptomat) for each room on the electrical panel; choose the right type of CB for each circuit.

Have 1 master switch for the whole house (e.g. when away): press it to cut all power, except the fridge, cameras and wifi / network. Besides the fridge, cameras and wifi - what other equipment should keep power when the master switch is off?

Each light bulb, fan and device on its own wiring: its own live wire + neutral wire, not sharing one neutral wire, not borrowing wires - when one line fails, only that line is repaired, easy to fix.

DC-motor ceiling fans, 2 of them: living room + kitchen - the architect advises on the style.

Electrical safety: the whole system is earthed (grounded); an earth wire accompanies every socket and device, including outdoors - devices do not leak current, no shocks.

Fridge and washing machine can be pushed in tight against the cabinet: sockets placed at the side, not behind.

Backup power during a power outage.

Cameras around and inside the house run stably, independent of wifi: each camera position has a power socket + network cable.

Smart home - especially important: alarm sensors, phone notifications... ensure security for the house, especially when away. Ready for automatic curtains and lights switched on/off through an app.

An EV charging spot (BYD or Geely) with a dedicated line, following the car maker's specifications.

The electrical panel and control boards do not spoil the look of the house.

How will the house be protected against lightning?

Should electrical devices and sockets be recessed into the wall?

Low sockets, within reach of children under 6: with a child safety lock.

Kitchen island that doubles as a dining table (partly wood); curved shape; the side designed to look pretty, no bare wooden frame left exposed.

Kitchen sockets hidden neatly: the island top shows no sockets; sockets on the kitchen wall can be hidden - placed behind the appliances in use, or on the underside of the upper cabinet (if there are upper cabinets).

A spot for cling film at the kitchen island.

2 single-bowl sinks: 1 for the wet kitchen, 1 for the dry kitchen.

The dishwashing spot has hot + cold water - leave the water line ready.

Modular kitchen cabinets for easy replacement; no need for a trash bin inside the cabinet.

No upper kitchen cabinets needed - an open, pretty kitchen wall.

Comfortable to stand and cook, and the robot can still sweep under the cabinets.

Using the dishwasher without bending: after washing, put dishes in the machine, or take dishes out of it, without bowing. What should the compartment below the dishwasher (after raising it) be used for? Storing things there still means bending.

The fridge looks neat but still releases heat well and items are easy to reach.

Strong extraction, insects cannot get in through the duct. Because there are no upper kitchen cabinets, the range hood will be the kitchen's focal point - the architect advises on the cooktop position and how to make the hood both effective and attractive.

What should the countertop and kitchen backsplash use: engineered quartz, Vicostone, solid surface or sintered stone? Prefer no grout lines.

How should the kitchen cabinet compartments be divided? Where should items that are too long (long chopsticks) or too big (hot pot) go?

Storage for small kitchen appliances (oven, air fryer, steamer, electric hot pot, coffee machine): which ones stay on the counter (with a socket), which are kept in cabinets? The architect advises on each item.

Should a double-height void / light well in the kitchen be built? The living room needs to be cosy, so probably not - but up to the architect to choose.

Entrance: taking shoes / slippers off and putting them on quickly and neatly; the shoe cabinet does not hold damp or odours.

A suitable side table / stool next to the living room sofa - the architect advises on the choice. Sofa, chairs and stools do not need to be one set, as long as they suit the space; they can differ in colour from the sofa for a deliberate accent.

Living room rug - the architect chooses.

A place for clothes worn during the day before washing: convenient in each room, plus one shared collection spot before laundry. Currently a basket is left in front of the bathroom - cramped and unattractive. The wardrobe holds everything neatly: suitcases, bags, umbrellas; hanging and folded clothes; blazers, dresses...; at night, opening the wardrobe should still let you see clearly. Should the wardrobe be full ceiling height? Should there be one area without doors to hold worn but unwashed clothes (e.g. jackets)?

A safe, non-slip play area for the child. Where should the play area go? What will this area be used for when the child grows up?

A place for the owner to lie down for a noon / evening rest and relax, that still looks good (the hammock in the old house spoiled the look).

Sofa and chair upholstery - goal: easy to wipe clean, durable, cool, suited to a home with small children (who often snack on the sofa). Is the fabric treated to be water-repellent? The owner wants to avoid: Boucle, velvet, suede (hard to wipe clean), faux leather (tears easily, hot). Also wants to consider linen for the living room sofa. The architect advises on suitable fabrics.

Drop-off zone at the entrance with ready sockets: to charge watches, earphones, power banks..., plug in an essential oil diffuser - put things down when coming home, grab them quickly when leaving.

Bathroom inside the bedroom: as chill and airy as possible; 2 people can use it at the same time; has a door but a light, pretty one; separate lavabo; no bathtub needed; a large window + a painting.

No glass box enclosure around the shower area.

Shower, taps and lavabo that are neat, pretty and easy to replace; plan all in-wall water lines for the future in advance. Built-in lavabo, flip-up cover. The architect suggests brands - looks are what matter most.

A tidy place for soap and shampoo.

Bathroom sockets that are waterproof, enough for: smart toilet, towel dryer (optional), anti-fog mirror heating pad / mirror, hair dryer, essential oil diffuser...

Mirror and mirror light: show the face clearly, look good, decorative - the mirror does not need to be perfect, slightly artistic.

Relaxing atmosphere: ivory + wood colours; greenery; artistic decor (paintings, textured paint...).

Should a foot rest / seating platform be built for showering? Good for the elderly, but not sure it suits young people.

An airy gate that lets the breeze into the house.

A gate that opens by itself - drive home without getting out to open it; it latches itself when closed, no need for a sliding bolt. What is the difference between a spring self-opening gate and an automatic gate? Which should be chosen?

The kitchen / house opens onto the garden.

Sun shading that still looks good (if needed).

A small rockery + guppy fish pond in the front yard; a place to hang a hammock in the yard.

No need to water plants or spray water to cool the yard by hand every day.

No rain splashing onto the front yard / porch, the back yard (BBQ, laundry drying), the balcony / roof terrace.

The yard and the road in front of the house are bright enough at night (the road in front of the house is rather dark).

Garden electrics that last, not damaged by tree roots and water; outdoor cables safe during gardening and digging. Plan the yard lighting scenarios in advance; leave wires / sockets for later connection (solar power, generator, bulbs, BBQ area sockets).

Yard, walls and landscape features that are easy to clean - plan this right from the design stage.

2 large mai (yellow apricot blossom) trees in the yard; 1 pomelo tree - can it be planted on the balcony? When advising on plants in the garden and in the house: state clearly the plant type, plant shape, care notes and the reason for choosing that plant.

A place for motorbikes outside the house, but refined enough and discreet. The residential land area may have to be increased.

Detailed water supply and drainage MEP drawings so the architect and contractor work to the same standard - workers build to the drawings, not to habit. Do not cut costs on the water system.

Strong water flow, arriving quickly at every point of use.

Pipe runs as short as possible (both supply and drainage), few sharp bends.

Water supply split by floor and area: if one area has a problem, only that area is shut off and repaired - other areas keep working normally.

Separate drainage: a clog in one line does not paralyse or back up into another area.

Drains fast, does not clog: enough slope, with vent pipes for the drainage system.

Durable pipes of the right type.